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“On Legumes” (Chickpeas)

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De leguminibus : recipe cicera et pone ad distemperandum per unam noctem in lexiuio bene salsato. Mane autem, abluas bene cum aqua tepida. Postea, decoque ea in aqua tepida et, in fine decoctionis, pone sal et oleum uel aliam pinguedinem.

LIBER COQUINA, 21

Translation

Of legumes: take chickpeas and place them in well-salted lye for a night to distemper them. In the morning, wash them well with tepid water and at the end of the cooking, put in salt and oil or another kind of fat

LIBER de COQUINA, 21

Original Source:
Geographical Context: , ,
Era:
Difficulty: Intermediate
Servings: 4
Description

Chickpeas were considered a paragon of nutritious food, and Du Fait de Cuisine gives us one recipe intended for the sick. These were first prepared for a 14th Century French event where none of the other primary sources discuss them, but an adjacent source, Liber de Coquina, gives us many options for their preparation. I have taken the most interesting and delicious elements from each of these options to create this specific dish.

Of note, LC gives us instructions to "distemper in well-salted lye." I do not feel comfortable recommending the use of Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) or Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) to the average cook, however a modern resurgence of pre-soaking chickpeas in a strong base is taking place, and so I do recommend the modern method of using Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate.) The end result is incredibly tender chickpeas which blend to a wonderful, rich smoothness.

Safety Note: If using Baked Baking Soda, Soda Ash, or Lye for soaking, ensure safety precautions are followed as noted in the recipe.

Ingredients
    Soaking Chickpeas
  • 1 lb Chickpeas, dried
  • Water, warm
  • 1 tsp Salt
  • 1 tbsp Baking Soda, Soda Ash or Lye*
    • Stewing Broth
  • 8 cloves Garlic, crushed
  • 5 sprigs each Parsley, Marjoram and Thyme (bound together as Bouquet Garni)
  • 6 cups Water
  • 5 threads Saffron (or Egg Shade coloring)
    • Seasoning
  • 2 tbsp Olive Oil
  • 1/4 cup Verjus
  • 1/2 tsp Fine Powder
  • 1/2 tsp Long Pepper
    • Fried Onion Topping
  • 1 large Onion, sliced vertically
  • 10 sprigs Thyme (bound together as Bouquet Garni)
  • 2 T. Olive Oil
Instructions
    Soaking the Chickpeas
  1. 1
    Put the dried Chickpeas in a large bowl and cover with water, 2 inches above the peas.
  2. 2
    Add the first measure of Salt and the Baking Soda* and soak overnight.
    *Soda Ash is Sodium Carbonate, which can be purchased or made by baking Baking Soda. This is a much stronger base and is caustic to the skin. Please research safety and use of Soda Ash aka "Baked Baking Soda" before choosing to use this product instead of standard Baking Soda. Please educate yourself likewise on Lye before choosing to use that. Unchanged store-bought Baking Soda dissolved in water represents a much lower risk to skin and eyes than these other two choices. Whichever you choose, this functions to break down the tough outer layer of the chick peas before cooking, allowing the interior to cook more readily and giving a smoother texture when finished.
    3. Cooking the Chickpeas
  3. 3
    Drain the chickpeas and rinse well to remove all of the remaining Baking Soda.
  4. 4
    Add the soaked Chickpeas, Garlic, Bouquet Garni, and second measure of Water to a pot, as well as the Saffron if you are using it.
    The Saffron in this recipe is primarily for color. You can omit it entirely, but Egg Shade colorant is readily available and is a very cost effective substitute for Saffron used for color only.
  5. 5
    Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cover. Simmer, covered, for 2 hours or until the Chickpeas are smooth and creamy, pressing easily between your fingers like peanut butter.
    6. Blending the Chickpeas
  6. 6
    Remove and reserve half of the chickpeas in a bowl.
  7. 7
    Combine the remaining half of the Chickpeas with their broth, the Olive Oil and the Verjus in a blender or food processor and blend until completely smooth. This should result in a thick, creamy broth.
  8. 8
    Combine this broth, the reserved Chickpeas, and the Fine Powder together and taste.
  9. 9
    Adjust for Salt, Verjus, and Spices as needed.
    10. Fried Onion Topping
  10. 10

    While the Chickpeas are finished cooking, caramelize the Onion well with the first measure of Olive Oil and the second Bouquet Garni of Thyme

  11. 11
    Remove and discard the Bouquet Garni.
  12. 12
    Top the Chickpeas with the Fried Onions and serve
Read it online: https://scandalouskitchen.com/recipe/on-legumes-chickpeas/